Hi, Shannon back here from host improvements.com, and we’re in our third video here of the shit build a shed series and we’re, we’re to the point where now where we’re going to do cutting and installing the rafters. So there’s a fair bit to, uh, to learn in this section. And I don’t know if I can completely teach it all to you because it changes slightly depending on the size of your building. But, uh, I’ve partially started, uh, this part of this, uh, video and just to give you an idea of where we’re kind of headed with it. And so that I can reference to some of the parts as I’m going. Um, we’ve got our, what I would call our common rafters, which would be these rafters out in the middle. Uh, this develops a bit of an overhang on the side here as well.
As you can see, I don’t have an overhang on the two ends, so I’ve got a wrath, uh, sorry, not a rafter buddy, a piece of facia, two by six cut and attached rate to the, to the end of the shed to form the two gable lands. Um, we’ve also got our, our Ridge board, which is this two by six that runs the full length of the shed, which is supported here by a two by four underneath and one on each side of that just to kind of create a cradle there on our rafters. Raf Common Rafters are nailed to the a ridge board and then they’re attached with these hurricane brackets, uh, to the walls. Really. I mean, they’re called a hurricane clip and that’s what they’re for. But I’m only using them because they’re easier to use than trying to toenail in here in the rafter, all splits and everything.
So, so we’ve got that all on there. Uh, I think the next thing to do is to show you how I got to this point. All right. So, uh, before you get started on the rafters, you need to do a little bit of math and a little bit of figuring so that you know where you’re going and what you’re going to cut out. Uh, the first thing we need to know is that our slope is going to be a six 12 slope on the rafter. So that basically means for every 12 inches of horizontal, uh, distance, the roof would raise six inches vertically. So in our case, our shad is a total of six feet wide rate from outside to outside in width. But to the center obviously is only three feet, right? So in that total three feet, that will have a rise of 18 inches is what that basically works out too.
Okay. So, uh, so that gives us our, our total rise. Okay. Now so that you can see what I’ve got here. Sorry, I’m kind of stumbling on my words. But so six, 12 slope, we’ve got a 36 inch run, which is half the width of our building. And uh, and we know that it’s 80 18 inches of brise because of our slope. Now, the main thing we need to out though is what is the high partners of this triangle that we basically formed. So this distance from here to here. So the math for that is a squared, which is one of the sides that you know already, plus B squared, which is the other side we know equals c squared, which is this distance that we’re trying to figure out. So if we fill in the right numbers, we’ve got 18 inches squared plus 36 inches squared will equal c squared.
Now again, just moving down, I’m just trying to make it as simple as I can, and I know it doesn’t sound that simple, but some of you will be catching on right away. So 18 squared is 324 plus 36 squared, which is 1200 1296 okay. Those add up to equal 1,620 k so now we need to find the square root of that to get her actual answer. So 1,620 is actually 40.25 inches. So 40 and a quarter inches is the distance rate from here to here. [inaudible] so that’s a very important part. We need to know that is the total of our a rafter length without the overhang. We still need to figure that in there. And basically for the overhang, we do the same thing. Uh, in this case I’m shooting for around a six inch overhang. Uh, so anyways, I basically did the math the same way because really all that’s doing is forming a little triangle down here like this, right?
So we’re looking for six inches there, uh, which uh, gives us three inches there. Use those two numbers in this same formula. We’ll give you the angled length. Super complicated so far, but uh, it, it does, this is what you need to do. So anyways, that all shakes out to the fact that our total rafter length is 40 and a quarter inches. Our tail down here is a going to be six and seven eighths. All right. So that would give us rate from outside of our overhang without a facial board on to the center line of our building. Now we need to make an a deduction at this point because at the center line of our building, if you remember when I was up top, we’ve got the a two by six Ridge board. So we need to basically get rid of half of that thickness of the Ridge Board.
Okay? Uh, so we need to make a deduction. There are 13 sixteenths on the top, okay. So in total when this is all said and done, we take are a 40 and a quarter plus our six and seven eights, which gives us what? 47 and an eighth I believe. And we take away our 1316 so that would give us her very total of the rafter that we’re building. Now that I’ve got you’ve totally confused, I’m going to show you how to mark this out on a rafter. Okay? So we should end up with something that looks like this, right when we’re done. Now this would be sitting on the wall right here at this point. That’s called the birds mouth seat cup. Okay? So that’d be sitting on the wall, goes up our slope. Here’s where it would attach to the, uh, to the, uh, Ridge board.
And way down at this end is where our facial would be on, on the outside edge of the shed. Okay. So we need to mark this all out onto a piece of lumber so that we can get it, uh, cut and, and uh, up on the building. Okay. So we’re using two by fours in this case because our span isn’t that far. So as we had said before, we can reference back to the sheet we had, we’re using a six 12 slope, right? So I’ve got my framing square here and I’ve kind of indicated with a marker line just so it’s easier to see on the video where the six inch areas here, so that six inches from this corner and 12 inches back from that corner. Those are our two points that we’re gonna use on the square to make these lines. Now if I do that on this might be easier to show you on the one that I’ve already cut out when I hold my square with those two marks along either the top or bottom of my piece of lumber.
And I’ll just pull it away a little bit. You can see how that’s giving me this end cut on the rafter. And again, this is how our rafters sitting. Okay. So there’s our end cut to make that plum. Okay. So you see how that Kinda works. So I’m, and I’m going to use a pen here just so it’s a little crisper line. So I’m going to mark out the end cut of this first guy. So I get my two marks up here, six and 12 on that rate angle and I make a line. Okay, so we’ve got that. So now we know that uh, our absolute total was 47 and an eighth. So I can hook, cause I’ve got this point on here coming right out to the end. So I’m going to use that to my advantage and hook right on there. Measure along the bottom to 47 and an eighth
Just like that. Okay. Now we had to come back the 13 sixteenths up here. So I’ll come back 13 sixteenths. That’s where I want to actually mark the top cut. So again, I put my square on six and 12 thanks. So slide it down to that mark. There’s my top cut right there.
Now for the overhang, I wanted, uh, using that same math formula that I had a squared plus B squared equals c squared. I have figured out that for the overhang I want, I’m going to hook on here and I’m going to come to six and seven eighths two my plumb cut on this on the seat. So I’m going to put a little mark at six and seven eights.
And I’m going to place my square again at six and 12 to get the right angle and I’m going to make a partial line like that. Now something else that I had determined that it’s more of a preference than anything is you need to decide how much of a seat cut you want because the, the reasoning for that seat cut is so that, uh, when it sits down on the wall, it has somewhere flat to sit on, on the top two by four that’s on your wall, your double top plate, right? So it sits like that. So we need that little lip there. So, uh, there’s no real magic number to that. It’s just nice to get a little bit of distance here, you know, at least a couple of inches, a lot from here to here. So I, I’ve determined that at about seven eighths of an inch up from here, I get a pretty decent seat cut for what I want to, uh, put on there. So again, I need my six and 12, but instead of marking on this edge, I’m gonna mark across that other edge to get the, uh,
it’s kind of hard to show you this year.
I don’t really have enough, uh, enough board here, but I can do this. So I’m sliding it down till I get to my seven eighths here that I wanted.
Just wait. That isn’t looking quite right. Got My mark in the wrong spot. Okay. So I’ve got my six 12 sliding it along.
Do we intersect here and there’s where my cut is for the seat. Just like that. Okay. So now when I’m cutting that, I’m cutting here, I’m cutting this triangle out of there and I’m cutting down at this end as well. And that will give me this right here. Okay. Fact, if I lay this on here, should end up looking the same. So you can see I’m just a little bit off, but basically like that what I do is once I have one cotton, I know what’s right. I just use that as a template and trace it over. Okay. So I’ve got this one here. I’m going to lay it on there just to be sure, because you want them all to be the same, so be sure it’s right. Start with and we’re good that way. So, uh, I’ve already got three up on the building. I basically got this one cut out, which I was using as a template. And I’m going to mark out one more and I’ve got enough length on this board here to do it. So I’m just going to lay it right on there. Theresa read out
and then I can cut those two out. And uh, they would be basically ready to use. Okay. So the other thing I needed is I need that end facial board that goes on the gable. So that’s a little simpler because we don’t need any cuts for the seat cut of the bird’s mouth or any of that. We just need it to go solely across the end of the building. So that’s your six 12 slope again, so you can see I’ve got this one marked out here. I’ve got it turned from how I was showing you, so on. Hopefully that doesn’t confuse you too much. I’ve got my six, my 12 and I get my marks there. Get my other mark there. So I’ll cut those out as well because those need to go up on the wall. Set this out of the way and you can make this cut with the jigsaw. I just cut part way in here with my circular saw and then knock that little piece out. But a, you could use a jigsaw if you want it to be absolutely perfect.
I’m probably going to be in the way for you to see this Smith
uh, I don’t know if I can turn any way so that you can see that better.
and when you’re coming into a board like this on an angle, you’re not coming straight in with a circular saw. You’ll need to rate, raise the guard out of the way with this little lever on the side. Because when you’re coming on an angle, what happens is this just skins a binding and it doesn’t actually lift properly. So you’re gonna find coming in on that angle, you’re gonna have to guide that safety shield. Kay and I end up with a little wee chunk of wood in the corner there and I just trim that out with my knife. Okay, so there’s our seat cut. I’m going to cut this other’s one radar.
okay. And are next Hertz.
And are final cut here.
okay. So now we have our, a final three rafter pieces that we needed up for up top right there. Okay. So I’m going to just set those out of the way.
I’m going to cut these end faces.
now these end fishes, they’re going to be the full full distance that we had figured out on our sheet up here because we don’t need to deduct for the center Ridge because a, they, these are actually going to go over the end and butt together, so they’re nailed to the end of that Ridge. They aren’t budding into it. You’ll see that better once I get up there putting them on.
And most people are just gonna do a bunch of trial and error to figure this out. And that works too. I’m just trying to show you the math, but uh, it may not be all that clear to you exactly what I was doing there.
at some point I will, uh, try to put up a page on the website explaining this better and maybe even having it marked radio for this particular shed. Obviously every shed that isn’t six feet wide, this is not going to work for it unless it’s six feet wide. So every a different size shed that you do that is going to work out a little differently. But I will try to get that posted up there, not too long time.
Okay. So that’s r a n faces
and uh, we’ve got the ridge already up there and everything and supported. Uh, really the first thing I’ve got to do now back on the shed is I’ve got to put on these triangular pieces of a OSB upon the gable end. So once I had my ridge up there, I could just determine simply by going up and physically measuring what I needed. And these don’t have to be perfect as long as they’re not sticking up past the height of the, of the rafters. So, so once we get, uh, shooting that part, the first thing I’ll be is putting these plywood pieces on the end of the shed. Then a lot of lead to putting up the end finishes. And after that I can put all the rafters on and then we’re just all got that part of things wrapped up. So I’ve got to get repositioned to get up there and uh, then we’ll show you what I’m doing next.
Okay. So we’ve come up here to the end of the building. Uh, I realized one thing I didn’t talk too much about was the height of figuring out where to or how to get this determine this height here. Uh, I know you’re all confused from what I explained on cutting the rafter, uh, on our, uh, on that page they said that I’m going to set up on the website which will firstname.lastname@example.org slash shed. Um, if you go there, I will have a lot of this information up there written down and uh, so you can actually physically look at it and also, uh, probably include a, a handy little a roof calculator, I guess you’d basically call it a where you can basically plug in the dimensions of your building, your shed, whatever, and it’ll spit out all the dimensions for these pieces, uh, either in imperial or metric, whatever you ask it to do. So, um, you know, something like this is pretty basic, but some of you may not, uh, fully understand what I was trying to say. So a, that calculator might come in handy. Um, so really, uh, to figure out the height of this, what I did, if you remember back, we, we figured out that we had an 18 inch total rise. Okay. Now that 18 inches was assuming that we had our rafters sitting just like this, right on the corner
and raid up all 18 inches would be down here somewhere. Okay. But because of the birds mouth, this cut down here, see how it sits down on the wall. Because of that, that 18 inch mark over here would actually be at the same height as it is here. So if you had an imaginary line all the way across here, it should be 18 inches at this point. Okay, so determine this height, you take your 18 inches and add to it. This distance right here, which I think in this case was like two and a half inches. I just forget. Okay, so let’s say it was two and a half inches. Let’s say it was two and three quarter inches. So that brings us up to 20 and three quarters. Okay, so that’d be rate rate to the very peak. If these came up to a peak, that’s what it would be.
Now you can see when I do put these rafters on, they actually stop here. The peak of the roof would be up here somewhere, so we need to drop this down a little bit to compensate for that. So I usually just drop at three quarters of an inch and it usually works out pretty decent. So, so in our case this would be about 20 inches. I’ll, I’ll just measure exactly what this one is, but actually that is what it is. It’s 20 inches. Okay. So I know that’s all confusing. I’m just trying to get you to the spot so you hopefully understand how I came up with all these different measurements. But uh, okay. I’m going to get that out of the way. We’re going to move on. Everybody’s totally confused enough, including, I think even my head’s starting to spin. So sorry. Next step is a applying these plywood, a little triangles here. Like I said, I precut them and they’re designed to be flush out to here. The way I cut it, and it should come rate to the center of my building, which in our case is 36 inches. So I’ve got a pencil mark there, I’ve got it lined up. I’m going to nail it.
like that. I’m nail, I’ve got bottom or top plead all the way across there so I can nail that all the way across. On the bottom. [inaudible] I’m using the short nails. Okay. Now I also put a center mark in the center of our Ridge. So I just,
I need to pull it or push it, whichever way to get it lined up with the edge of my sheet there and put a nailing
Okay. And that’ll sturdy that all up. I can nail all the way up here. K Two solid dot up. Now grab the other,
the other piece here. I need the same thing over on this side. We can just double check that. This is plum. Looks pretty good. I’m off just a hair, but it, it’ll uh, it’ll work. So same thing. This one sits in here. Basically butts rates directly up with the one we already installed.
obviously if this was a bigger building, uh, you know, you might have a full rafter on this end because of an overhang or whatever. Uh, we’re doing a shed here. So we’re trying to make things as simple as we can still look good. The main reason that, uh, on a bit of a side note, the main reason that I am having an overhang on the side and not worrying about it on the end is with the slope of the roof, your snow, rain, whatever runs off. And with an overhang, at least if you don’t have gutters on you, uh, Yves Trough, the moisture will fall off, hit the ground, and it’s at least away from the building a little bit. It’s not splashing directly right up on the building all the time and rotting out your walls. If you don’t have an overhang, that water’s pretty much running off your roof and running down the wall, or at least hitting the ground within a couple inches and splashing up and, uh, over time, that just rots your building. So that’s why I’ve got some overhang on the edge just to get the moisture away on the ends. Just to simplify things. I didn’t worry about it, uh, about an overhang. Okay. So we’ve got, uh, that all on there.
And, uh, I’m just gonna stop for a quick minute. You notice I have rap on most of the other part of the building and a pull my wrap all up and then we’re going to put the Fascia and facial on. Okay. So we put that plywood up on the end there. We got the wrap on. I just realized a easiest way to get that in facial lined up is to have, uh, these rafters on. So I’m going to show you, just kind of jump around here and show you how to do the, do the rafter itself. So I’ve got it marked out. I’m putting the rafters on two foot centers, so that’s marked Ode along top of the top plate and the, uh, the Ridge board there. Uh, so I’m holding it on my position. I pushed it tight against the wall. I’m just going to toenail one nail down just to hold it.
and then I’m going to go to putting my bracket on. The bracket has a series of holes on the sides and on the feast. So the bracket simply goes down here, slides in.
once I get a screw in there, it will be held in place too. I can get the rest in. So here’s a good example of why I use these brackets. I’ll move this so you can see, you see when I toe nail that, you see how this rafter actually split there? I’m pretty sure he’s, you can focus in on that. To have these rafters tow nailed securely enough, you’d need a minimum of three nails, two on one side and one on the other to hold that in place. Well, you can see what one nail did. So that’s why I like to use these brackets because, uh, you don’t get that splitting and uh, we weakening of the raft. So you screw it all in
this bracket could go on the inside if you wanted. Uh, where it is here on the outside, once the, once the soffits in, it’s all hidden up in behind the soffit. So, so now, once it’s attached to the building, now I attach the rafter itself.
Well, with the screws,
and I know you noticed I skipped one hall.
We’re not really using them to keep hurricanes from ripping the roof off. So I’ve skipped the one hole there, so that holds the end of the bracket in place. Now you can see we’re floating around up at the top. I can line it up on my mark, get it down in position, and I’m going to nail it in from the end. So I’ll just move around there and do that quickly. While, while I’m right here though, what I’m going to do to help determine the height of this piece out here, because my plywood is just roughly cut, it’s not to the right height. I’m going to put a street edge across these rafters, which will hang out here. So I can just simply slide the end of my, uh, facial up until it’s hitting the bottom of the, uh, street edge. And then I’m good. So it’s best to keep your street edge straight. So I’m just going to put a quick pencil mark here. So I know I’m equal distance from the end. I’m just going to tack in a temporary nail on those marks, on these two rafters like that.
And that’ll hold my straight edge sitting there like so. So that when I slide my uh, facia piece up and it contacts this corner in the same position as it’s sitting on all these, I know I’m at the right height and everything’s flat across this face. Okay. So that’s uh, sitting there kind of ready to go. I’m going to go nail that and quick and then I can put that in phase on. Okay. So I’ve got myself up here. I’m just pushing this down to where it’s flush up to the top of the ridge
and I nailed in three nails. Now when I do,
when I do the other side, cause I’ve got two rafters missing over here, I’ll do exactly the same thing. But because this rafters, I mean they’re going to line up to each other with the one on this side. I can still come in on this side and, and nail off to the side here on a slight angle and it’ll, the nail will come through and into the end of the rafter. So I can still nail it that way. Or I could toenail it, which would be angling some nails through the edge of it, but I can a nail in from the end anyways. Okay. So, uh, here I am with the n Facia and I’m using long nails, three, three and a quarter inch. I believe these ones are, so I’ve got my facial board, my facial is going to get attached on this plywood actually, actually. Yeah, no, that’s right. Okay. So
I can see where, because of how I did this with a joint, I know that, that this is exactly where the end of this piece has to come to and I want to get it up to the top. So I’m going to nail that in first. Just roughly get the other end held close to the right height.
get a couple nails topped in there.
Now with the long nails, this two by six is haying down over the end of the wall. So I know I can nail back there and get into lumber. So I’m just sliding that up until I got contact. And I’ll get a nail in there like that and I’ll do exactly the same thing on the other half of this. But while I’m up here on the ladder, I’m going to switch to the short nails and I’m going to go to the backside here and nail some short nails through that plywood triangle piece that we put up and back into this facia just to get everything held solid.
okay, so we’ve got that all. Salted it up. I’m going to do the same thing on the other half of the shed here and uh, put the raft rest of the rafters on and then we’ll talk about the roofing. Okay. So I realized we hadn’t talked yet about this, the, uh, eve facia here. So that’ll be the two by six that goes all the way across here. And, uh, basically you want to try to use the straightest material you can for your faces. So we’ve kind of picked through what we had, uh, cut it to length, which would be rate in the way I have it set up or eat from outside of this gable, facia, outside of that Gable Facia. Then we’re gonna lift and hold it in place. Uh, usually having somebody help you here is about the best thing. Now you also need something that’s a bit of a street edge so you can run it down the roof slope here and it’ll contact on this outside corner. Just like so. And I want to get it flush here. So right there is where this first one will get tacked.
Put a nail in.
I’m just going to put one in each nail here to start with. I’m going to go along and my partner there, he’s going to lift it or lower it until I have contact with straight. There’s good
till we get
down the whole length of the,
that’s pretty nice. And then
finally right on there and you can see how by slide that down, it just makes just nice contact right there. If it was higher it would lift it up. If it was lower, it wouldn’t, you know, there’d be a space there obviously, so, so it’s nice rate where it’s sitting pretty flushed there on the end.
Okay. And I’ll finish nailing all those off. Okay. And now if you look, you looked
down the facia kind of throw your eye on it. You can see it’s not a hundred percent percent street. It’s actually not bad. But, uh, we want to straighten it out and I’m talking in and out this way. We want to straighten it out as best we can. So basically what we’re going to do is we’re going to go along and just tap, tap this back out where it needs it. Have another look a little bit more down there.
There, that’s not too bad right there. So we’re pretty straight. Uh, if you get some big gaps there, you can just take a shim, stick it in behind till it tightens things up, break it off just to take up that gap. This one’s not that much space here in this one at all.
Just like, so, okay. So we’ve got that street. So, uh, now we’re at the point where we can talk about the roofing. Uh, roofing is going to be actually the next video, but I just want to touch base with it here. If we were going to shingle this roof, which we aren’t, but if we were going to, uh, basically at this stage, we’d be ready to put our sheeting on here. Um, so just like we did on the walls, we were using seven sixteenths OSB on the walls. Uh, we can use that on this roof as well. So you’d basically lay your sheets up here or pre cut them to size, uh, nail them all on, just like we did the sheet, the wall sheeting about a foot apart with your nails, uh, get it all on there and then it would be ready to shingle. Uh, that’ll be another video. And other day, as far as the shingling goes, this particular shed is going to have a metal roof. So metal sheet sheets will be put on here for the roofing. For that, we need to strap the roof with a one by fours or two by four. We’re gonna use two by four in this case, but, uh, we’ll come back to that in the next video. So if you, uh, can find that video and just stuff all along with us, we’ll move right along to that.