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I’m building a new storage shed for my lawn mower and gardening tools. I’ve noticed that most sheds tend to rot from the bottom up and are often home to ground hogs and skunks. Because of these issues I’m taking a little more time and effort to prevent that from happening to this shed by building a solid base and level foundation. Hope you find this video helpful

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35 Responses

  1. In the UK we have rats (nothing like what you have in the states – mole rats; Horror!) and I’ve taken to making brick edging, fill it with broken bricks (rats can’t eat through them) and cover and level with concrete. Then I put a raised outline of bricks and single bricks all with damp proof course (DPC) on top, then the wooden frame. This stops both rodents and damp rising while allowing an air layer for insulation and damp balancing.
    What I’ve found is rats eat through walls where you can’t get to them – so, screw on thin sheet steel. Being flat they can’t get a purchase on it and never get through. Make sure this steel curtain comes half way down the exposed bricks so that water doesn’t drop onto your timber and compromise the DPC. Lastly, mix bitumen with white spirit and apply liberally – this both soaks into the wood and brick plus disguises the steel while adding long lasting weather proofing.

    1. Great video content! Apologies for butting in, I would appreciate your opinion. Have you thought about – *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is an awesome exclusive guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my mate at very last got astronomical success with it.?

    2. I realize this video is old, but I would love to see some photos of how you built the #ratBarrier. I’m having trouble visualizing what you described.

    3. I think you could probably have simply covered the top of the base with thick chew proof wire netting ? which would prevent any rodents chewing into the floor of the shed . Otherwise , if rodents get underneath the shed, they aren’t really a problem as long as they can’t chew a way in from underneath ?

    1. Nice Video! Apologies for chiming in, I am interested in your opinion. Have you tried – Mahorrla Wooden Paradise Method (erm, check it on google should be there)? It is an awesome exclusive product for building better sheds and woodworking without the headache. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my mate after a lifetime of fighting got great results with it.

    2. Nice Video! Excuse me for chiming in, I would appreciate your thoughts. Have you thought about – Mahorrla Wooden Paradise Method (do a google search)? It is an awesome one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the hard work. Ive heard some great things about it and my good mate called Gray at very last got astronomical results with it.

    3. Hey everyone, the best results that ive had was with the Wilfs Shed Formula (i found it on google) without a doubt the most useful course that I have ever followed.

    4. Appreciate Video clip! Forgive me for butting in, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you considered – Mahorrla Wooden Paradise Method (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now)? It is an awesome one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking minus the hard work. Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my buddy after many years got cool success with it.

  2. 8:04 Alternatively tack a piece of 3/4″ material to the belt (the frame) and hook your tape on that–now you can quickly mark at the red indicators along your tape without having to ‘measure’ back 3/4″ each time. Less chance of mistakes although truthfully it doesn’t matter excepting on those joists where the sheeting is joined.

  3. Another idea, instead of a treated (say a wolmanized plank) piece of wood, is to use one of the new manufactured boards made from recycled plastics. They never degrade or are eaten by insects.

  4. those joist should have joist hangers. Without hangers, those joists will sag and over time they pull away from the belt. Your entire building will go out of square and the weaker parts of the structure will start to come apart. The belt should also be supported. He should also have block between the joists so the joists dont twist or shift from 90 degree.

    1. Mno buzzz b.s. totally unnecessary to block between floor joists. My shed is 12 x16. I put 3 16d galvanized ring shank nails at each pressure treated 2×6 floor joist. 16 on center with skids on the bottom of the floor structure and the flooring nailed about every 6 inches with 8d galvanized ring shank nails the floor joists aren’t going anywhere. And I used the factory cut edges of the true floor tongue and groove flooring to square my floor and got a perfectly squared floor.i doubled up the end joists of my floor structure as well for added strength and to have more nailing surface for the bottom end wall plates.

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