The half laps at the top of the roof rafters are basically the same as the half laps used for the floor and the walls, but they’re set in an angle which makes the layout and cutting a bit more challenging. The rafter tails are going to be exposed on this shed, so I wanted to dress them up with a curve.

Okay. These are going to be our nice curved rafter tails. I’m gonna make these with a combination of a jigsaw, a template, and a my belt sander. Now I’m gonna go the other side and show you how it’s done.

I use the marketing Jig. Describe the curve,

my rafter tails, rough them out with a jigsaw equipment, the long blade, and then so they match. I gang them together for a final cleanup with my belt sander.

I was able to get two rafters from a single 12 foot, six by six. So after finishing the curve tails on either. Yeah,

and I use my chop saw to cut each piece in half

for moving on to the half lap ridge cuts.

Okay, we’ve got our curved rafter tails finished up. Now we’re going to use this Jig to mark the cuts at the top of the rafters.

This is the other end of my rafter tail template and I’ll use it to mark my angles and lay out the width of my lap joints at the top of each rafter.

Now I’m going to line up this point with the end of the post. Slide it down here, and this’ll become cheap cut. This is going to go away completely, and this we’ll do a regular half lap.

I cut the top angle on a chop saw and then cut the lap joint in two passes with a circular saw and removed the waist with a chisel.


we’re the rafters. Meet the top layer of the wall. I need to cut a bird’s mouth. I do this in two cuts. First the seed cut, then the plumb cut to make my life easier. I’m going to assemble each pair of rafters on the ground before lifting them into place. Now all the rafters are the same,

so just grab to flip one over and join them together with screws

before I lift the rafters in place. There are a couple more things I want to do. The two gable ends, we’ll have event, so I frame these openings while I had the rafters on the ground. I just tack in some two by fours. Once the two by four framing is in, I can get the rafters in place,

align each pair of rafters to the mark and drive a single screw into each, anchoring it to the top plate.

Let’s check that the outside is flush. You send it home

to brace the rafters in their final position. I’m mark the spacing on a piece of skip sheeting. Then fascinate to the gable end, plum it up and fasten the other rafters to their marks on the skip sheeting.


Before I get to work on the fly rafters, I have to put up another piece of skip sheathing to help align the top edge of the trim. Before we fill in the rest of the skip sheet thing, we need to take some measurements for the trim on the fly rafters. Now anytime you have lots of trim pieces coming together from different directions, it’s helpful to use the building itself to draw out how they’ll connect. First I draw a line that runs plum with the evil wall of the building. Then I added the thickness of the furring strips that will come later, and also the thickness of the five quarter freeze board. Finally, I draw a level line from the point where the outer face of the freeze board meets the top of the rafter. This line represents the level cut on the bottom of the cable trim. Okay,

so what this is going to leave me with is when this piece of trim goes across here, it’s going to cover up the piece that’s running underneath the overhang over here. And my gable trim is going to come down and land perfectly on top of that. So I’m going to hook my tape, I’ll put the ridge and I’m going to come down and that is 61 and a quarter from long point along point. So I’m just gonna go cut that piece and we’ll start assembling the rest of this package on the ground. Okay. Using the measurements that we took off of the building, I caught all the pieces for my fly rafters. Now I’m just gonna put together as many of them as I can for carrying them over and putting them.


I use pocket screws to fasten the mitered break boards too.


I fastened the outer rake trim to short lengths of two by logging and then clamp the two pieces together and fast and then with screws.


I need to hit the raw wood with primer to seal it against moisture. I like to use spray primer because it’s quick and you don’t need to worry about cleanup or a brush drying out.


The first piece that goes up is the blocking, which is the same thickness as the siding. That will come later than I nail on the sub facia with pre attached too by blocking and finish up the outer rig trim, which is aligned to the top edge of the skip sheeting.

Okay. I’ve got my fly rafters fastened up on the gable ends. Now I just need to cut my curves in place and I’ll move on to the skip sheeting.

Now on this side of the roof, we’re doing 18 inch red cedar shingles with a five inch exposure. So what we’re doing is we’re taking two by threes, which are actually two and a half inches


and we’re using them as a spacer, so added up together and you get a five inch spacing. So we have solid nailing for all of our shingles and we went and solid down at the bottom for our double starter course. And so it looks nice from underneath. Okay.

On the backside, I only need a few nailers to attach the corrugated roofing, so I lined them up with the fly rafter blocking.


two pieces at the top of the roof. Provide nailing for the ridge cap at all ends all later. Okay. That does it for the skip sheeting. Now we’re going to go back to the opposite side of the roof and get started on the Cedar Shingles.

32 Responses

    1. @NattySawer agreed. Less critisism from armchair experts and a little more respect for taking the time and effort to post an informative and helpful video.

    1. Guys I am learning woodworking at *WoodworkingPlansandproject .net* the best website to learn beginner to advance level woodworking…..

  1. This whole thing is overkill. Wasting money and timber.
    Is this meant to be a bomb shelter or something as I can’t think of any other reason you would use such heavy timber

    1. Some of you younger folks don’t understand this is how sheds/buildings were built in the past. I have one that I built over 40 years ago out cedar and still looks good. Compared to sheds that people are building today that won’t last 15 – 20 years without major work being done to it.

  2. Wow… this guys uses all of my tools… I love Milwaukee M18s, and also love those Paslodes (I’ve got a nice big-boy framer like he does, and a nice finish-nailer – not so much a fan of the gas canister though lol), and he also uses similar clamps like I do… And like he does, I like to check to see if it is FLUUUUSH lol. Man, how I love to BUILD stuff… I could watch stuff about building and build all day and not even get hungry…lol.

Leave a Reply